Esch-sur-Alzette and Dudelange: Two Luxembourg Pearls
Many people happen to enter Luxembourg, pass through it and leave without realizing it. Luxembourgers are used to it. The Grand Duchy, is a founding member of the EU and is placed literally in the heart of the Old Continent.
While those who have been attracted and fascinated by Luxembourg also owe credit to its wonderful little towns and among them the second most populated, Esch-sur-Alzette, which in 2022 was the European Capital of Culture.
An Abruzzese, home of Ignazio Silone and D’Annunzio, would say “but what does this Esch have to do with culture”? Luxembourg’s Acume, has not failed to give its Capital of Culture, Esch, and the entire area composed of a dozen or so municipalities a “booster” of funding and achievements explicating beneficial immediate effects, still in existence and in future continuity.
But we are intrigued by the question: in a Europe overflowing with history and culture what will Esch ever have to say? It is necessary to visit it to discover its Charm, Beauty and welcoming town composure.
Also within the perimeter of Esch, a little less than 4 km away, it is worth visiting Belval and the monster.
A soft, gentle name for this suburb of Esch that has suffered more than any other from the desertification of the gradual closure of steel activities. A soft name that contrasts with the imposing and eerie harshness of the two blast furnaces that dominate the complex of modern University buildings, banks and service companies.
The contrast is intentional and a visit to the blast furnace A as the first “must” of the entire trip. One ascends by elevator to a height of 40 meters and then, if one does not suffer from vertigo, descends by safe but aerial stairs taking a journey through the impressive steel production process, dotted with clear information panels and continuing into the dark underbelly of the Möllerei, the “larder” of raw materials on which the monster fed and ending in the equally colossal hangar into which the glowing melt spilled.
Today everything is still, cold and almost gloomy but one has to imagine clangors and vapors, smells and dust and, over all, the din and heat of this modern but now extinct Vulcan workshop, Unmissable.
For contrast and to dilute the emotions, one can go for an invigorating walk to a park in gestation at the center of which the Source Belval memorializes an ancient mineral water spring with an elegant and evocative set-up, as if to contrast the very many fires, not hard to imagine.
Still in the heart of the European Capital of Culture 2022, Esch with al its architecture and savoir fer.
Travel in the region is always convenient and, above all, free. Of note is the “Paesana” availability of two characters who in a way sum up the entire itinerary and the answer to the initial question. Jean Goedert is the former chief architect of the municipality; he is now retired and accompanies the architectural tours in the historic center of Esch.
The very pleasant stroll can begin on the pedestrian street that has covered the Alzette River and unravels among styles and buildings that, if they never have the tone of clamorous exceptionality, always have that of European history, among remnants of medieval towers, Art Nouveau facades, Haussmanian-Parisian style buildings, small park-oases, the Musée de le Résistance, and squarish modern buildings.
The walk can end by enjoying a tarte flambée and coffee with local pastries.
At the gates of Esch and at the portal of one of the three disused steel mills, one can rely on Michel Feinen. He can make even the ghostly complex enchanting.
Michel can passionately narrate and entrust the visitor or visitors to a lively group of volunteers and enthusiasts who first cleared from rubble and abandonment this immense – 3,000 sq. m. – pavilion and then transformed it into a true cultural center under the effective slogan-calembour of “savoir fer,” the “know-how that has to do with iron.” Thus the space was tripartitioned into an atelier area with a never-before-seen working model of a blast furnace, an archive, exhibition and tooling sector, and a buvette meeting place.
It is worth spending a few lines to report the gist of this highly original center on the culture of iron and steel: “Casting, forging, welding, turning and assembling…rediscovering the techniques of yesteryear and linking them to those of today and tomorrow. Then collect, document and archive to safeguard and make accessible the “savoir fer” to those who want to rediscover and revive it. Finally, create a place for socio-cultural sharing by opening the industrial heritage to new ideas and forms.”
And so there is no longer any wonder about Esch European Capital of Culture 2022.
The motto of Esch 2022 is “Remix culture,” and Director General Nancy Braun has had her hands full involving the area’s 18 municipalities – ten on Luxembourg territory and eight French – in a joint effort to “remix” cross-border cultural assets, rediscover the area’s mining and industrial heritage and reposition it from the standpoint of its uniqueness and deeply European nature, thanks in part to the melting-pot of cultures drawn over the decades by migratory flows. The budget for the entire operation was €54.8 and €1.5 million from the Luxembourg and French sides, respectively.
The theme of “remix” also interacted with the other two Capitals 2022 – Novi Sad and Kaunas – and was declined along four strands: Art, Europe, Nature and Yourself, and the closing ceremony of the Capital year was officiated under the motto of Re-Start.
Since the closure of the last blast furnace in 1997, the entire Minett region has been repositioning itself as a tourist destination by focusing on the mix of industrial archaeology and natural heritage. Therefore, among the region’s various tourism products, it is worth mentioning the Minett Trail, an easy 90-kilometer hiking route in eleven stages that is part of the Unesco “Man and the Biosphere” program and complements the Minett Cycle, 150 kilometers dedicated to bicycle tourists.
The Minett Trail touches on the region’s natural, urban, mining and industrial landscapes. What makes it even more interesting are the stage places of the Kabaisercher project launched by the local Order of Architects and Engineers: an ideas competition has allowed existing structures-including a railroad car, an old miner’s house, a small tower-and purpose-built ones such as the Floater: the “cabin” that is set up in the middle of a reservoir just below the Wassertourm in Dudelange, ultra-modern and self-sufficient in which people can spend nights.
But not far from Esch, just five miles away, another marvel is completing an acrobatic somersault from heavy industrial physiognomy to receptacle of Art, Science and Culture.
Dudelange: the tower and the “Italian quarter”
The first hint of response is a color, or rather shades of color that vary on all shades of dark red, brick and rust: The color of iron continues to surround the urban chroma, but connoted to the contemporary artistic exaltation of free spaces. Never, however, as were the thousands of miners and workers who gave life to one of the world’s most colossal mining basins and steel districts. The former in the open air and in the depths of the mines to extract “minett” the iron ore of the area, the latter in the impressive cathedrals of fire and smoke of the great blast furnaces and rolling mills.
The best way to begin one’s journey of discovery is then, after sleeping in the Floater, to enter the permanent exhibition in the Pomhouse in Dudelange and then climb the Wassertourm, the tower-tank that served the great steelworks now disused like almost all those in the area. Here a very effective multimedia tour and an equally effective collage of period footage ending with a panoramic view from the tower make one understand without words the “life and destiny” of the mine and steelworkers.
But understanding would not be complete without a visit to the Centre de Documentation sur le Migrations Humaines. Here one is welcomed by President Marcel Lorenzini and who is always willing to open up a world. That of immigration documented by this small but well-kept center; Italian immigration (especially Umbria and Friuli) but over time supplanted by Portuguese immigration.
10. Luxembourg City (a few kilometers away)
One of Dudelange’s main attractions is its historic center where you can admire historic buildings, such as the Torre de l’Eglise, St. Martin’s Church and the Maison Napoléonienne. The city is also home to several museums, including the Museum of Dudelange, which offers an interesting account of the history and culture of the area.
For nature lovers not to be missed is a visit to Haaler Millen Park, a green area with scenic paths ideal for long walks or picnics. While visiting the park, you can also visit the Moulin de Dudelange, a restored old watermill.
Dudelange is also known for its industrial heritage. A must for visitors is a visit to the Deich Foundation, a former steel factory converted into an art and cultural space. Here you can view contemporary art exhibitions and participate in cultural events.
The city also offers numerous events throughout the year, such as the Blues Express Festival and the Festival des Migrations, which provide a great opportunity to immerse yourself in local culture.
Dudelange Castle
Dudelange Castle is one of the main tourist attractions in Dudelange, in southern Luxembourg. Situated on a hill, the castle offers a panoramic view of the city and its surroundings.
The castle has medieval origins and was built in the 13th century as a defensive fortress. Over the centuries, the castle was expanded and transformed into a stately residence. Today, it houses the Dudelange Museum of Natural and Cultural History.
The museum offers a rich collection of archaeological artifacts, as well as exhibitions on the history and culture of the region. Throughout the year, Dudelange Castle also hosts cultural events and happenings, such as concerts and temporary exhibitions.
Dudelange Steel Museum
The Steel Museum is one of the most interesting tourist attractions in the region and in Dudelange . This museum offers a fascinating journey into the world of the steel industry, which played a key role in the history and development of Dudelange.
The Steel Museum is housed in a restored old industrial building that retains the authentic atmosphere of the time. Here, the different stages of steel production, from iron mines to the steel mill, can be explored through a series of interactive exhibits and historical artifacts.
You will also learn about the innovative technologies and processes used in steel production, as well as the impact that the steel industry has had on the economy and daily life of the local population.
The museum also offers an interesting educational space for visitors of all ages, with a variety of interactive activities and workshops dedicated to steel science and engineering.
The Dudelange Steel Museum offers a unique perspective on Luxembourg’s industrial culture and heritage.
St. Martin’s Church
St. Martin’s Church is one of the main points of interest to visit in Dudelange. Built in the 13th century and renovated over the centuries, this Gothic church is a majestic example of religious architecture.
The church features an impressive façade with a bell tower rising skyward. Inside, ancient frescoes and stained glass windows can be admired, creating an enchanting atmosphere.
The church’s central location makes it an important landmark in Dudelange, and it is also an active place of prayer, rich in Luxembourgish religious culture for the local community.
Alphonse Neyens Monument
The Alphonse Neyens Monument is one of the main attractions to visit in Dudelange. This monument is dedicated to Alphonse Neyens, a local citizen who played an important role in the resistance during World War II. Located in the center of town, the monument was erected to honor Neyens’ courage and commitment in the fight against Nazi occupation. It is a place of great historical and symbolic significance for the community of Dudelange. The Alphonse Neyens Monument is a testament to the history and legacy of Dudelange and is an important landmark for learning more about local history and honoring those who sacrificed for freedom.
Pëtzenuewen bike path
The Pëtzenuewen bike path is a wonderful tourist attraction in Dudelange.
This scenic bike path, which passes through enchanting, breathtaking natural landscapes, passing through forests, fields and hills, is perfect for cycling enthusiasts and outdoor enthusiasts.
Fond-de-Gras Automobile Museum
The Fond-de-Gras Automobile Museum is a major tourist attraction in Dudelange. Located in a charming mining village, it offers visitors an intriguing journey through time through the history of the automobile.
Inside the museum is an extensive collection of historic cars, from the oldest models to iconic racing cars. Of particular interest are the vintage vehicles from different eras and from all over the world, and many of them are still in perfect working order.
Parc Le’h Adventures
Parc Le’h Adventures is a fascinating tourist attraction located in Dudelange. This adventure park offers a range of exciting activities for visitors of all ages.
One of the highlights of Parc Le’h Adventures is its high-level course, a suspended course consisting of rope bridges, walkways, swings, a canoe and kayak area on the Chiers River, and also with opportunities for exciting group archery competitions. Visitors can climb trees and challenge their skills in an intriguing natural environment, with course suitable for both beginners and experts.
Haard Nature Park
Haard Nature Park in Dudelange is another important tourist attraction in Luxembourg. The park offers a variety of recreational activities and views with its beautiful natural landscape of lush forests, hills, and scenic trails.
The park also boasts a rich flora and fauna, with several species of plants and animals living in its territory. It is possible to spot rare birds and other wild creatures during a walk in the park, making the experience even more exciting.
For the more adventurous, Haard Nature Park also offers the chance to climb its rock walls or enjoy water sports in its small lagoons. It is a great place for rock climbers, but it is essential to make sure of the rules and regulations before venturing out.
In addition, the park also hosts cultural and recreational events throughout the year, such as outdoor concerts, food festivals and art exhibitions. These events add a lively atmosphere to the park, attracting visitors from across the country and beyond.
Luxembourg, March 12, 2024
