The Wines of the Luxembourg Moselle: A Concentration of Traditions, History and Enological Biodiversity

Luxembourg is internationally famous for its savings and investment “culture.” However, its vineyards, among the few in the world located so far north, are not as well known. Its wine history, from the Celts to the present day, is fascinating to say the least. But what lies behind the vineyards of this small state? Let’s discover the uniqueness that distinguishes the vineyards of Luxembourg’s Moselle.

Millennia of history

The Mosel Valley is a region with a winemaking tradition dating back more than 2,000 years. Celts, Gauls and Romans were already growing vines before monasteries took over production in the Middle Ages, thus extending vine cultivation to much of the territory. In 1709, after an extremely harsh winter, the Moselle re-established its primacy in viticulture. Starting in the late 19th century, 90 percent of the vineyards were devoted to Elbling, which was exported to Germany to blend with local wines.
It was only after the customs union agreement made with Belgium (1922), the founding of the Wine Institute in Remich (1925) and the creation of the Marque national label (1935), that Luxembourg vineyards developed and became more differentiated.
Since the launch of the appellation Moselle Luxembourgeoise – Appellation contrôlée in the 1980s, the appellation Crémant de Luxembourg and the classifications Vendanges Tardives (“late harvest”), Vin de Glace (“ice wine”), Vin de Paille (“straw wine”) and Vins barrique (“barrique wines”) have also been introduced.

A small pearl

The Moselle River flows sinuously like the stroke of an impressionist brush, infusing the landscape with peace and tranquility. The Moselle, in the Grand Duchy, winds 42 kilometers through Luxembourg’s vineyards, facing Germany, flanking vineyards nestled in an enchanting landscape. Not surprisingly, Luxembourg’s Moselle Valley, the Grand Duchy’s main wine region, constitutes one of the country’s most visited tourist destinations. It lies just 20 kilometers from the capital. From Schengen in the south to Wasserbillig in the north, some 340 winegrowers are involved in managing 1280 hectares of vineyards, 90 percent of which are planted with vines intended for white wine production.
There are 15 grape varieties allowed in Luxembourg, but the ones mainly grown are nine, listed below, in order of vine area: Rivaner, Pinot Gris, Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Elbling, Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer.
The vineyards insist on two different soil types, in the Remich cantonment we find marly clay and gentle slopes, while in the Grevenmacher cantonment we find limestone, given marine deposits, with the presence of shells and steep slopes.
There are two appellations under Luxembourg legislation: AOP Moselle luxembourgeoise and AOP Crémant-de-Luxembourg, the latter reserved for Classic Method sparkling wines.

The grape varieties: white cabernet and resistant variety of pinot noir

Of 1280 hectares of vineyards in the Luxembourg Mosel, 90% of the vines are white. Chief among these is Rivaner (Müller-Thurgau), to which 21.6 percent of the total vineyard area corresponds. This grape produces light table wines. It is followed by Pinot Grigio and a Luxembourg specialty, Auxerrois, which correspond to about 15 percent each. Then there is Riesling, the “king of white wines,” which occupies 12.8 percent of the vineyard area. This late-ripening grape variety is less susceptible to fungal diseases and tolerates noble rot very well. In contrast, as for Elbling, formerly predominant, its area is steadily decreasing.

The country is increasingly focusing on Pinot Noir.

Currently about one-tenth of the vineyard area is planted with the red Burgundy grape variety. According to Claude François, journalist and editor of the VinsLux guide, who is also a keen observer of Luxembourg’s vineyards, “almost all winemakers offer Pinot Noir and vinify it inside wooden barrels. The best vintage of Pinto Nero is 2018, followed by an equally excellent 2020.”
Cabernet Bianco: a very resistant grape variety
As is also the case in France, Luxembourg winemakers, both members of the Domaines Vinsmoselle cooperative and small producers such as Domaine KOX, are beginning to make wines by choosing resistant grape varieties such as Cabernet Bianco: a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and a disease-resistant variety created by Swiss Valentin Blattner in 1991.
Luxembourg’s Crémant turned 30 years old
As Claude François explains, “By now everyone is making Luxembourg sparkling wine. This is the engine that drives our wine business forward.” This was the case in 1991. Today about three million bottles a year are produced. In fact, some locals like to say that the best vintages can certainly be equated with the best Champagnes!

The Auxerrois
With 194 hectares planted with vines (15 percent of the country’s area planted with vines), the Auxerrois is the third most widely planted grape variety in Luxembourg, preceded only by Rivaner, (the local name for Müller Thurgau) and Pinot Gris (the latter boasts only five hectares more).
The Auxerrois is not a very widespread grape variety; the world’s area planted with vines in 2016 was 2,853 hectares. That placed it 149th in the ranking of grape varieties (source: Which Winegrape Varieties are Grown Where?)
Almost all of the vine is in France (2,409 ha), mainly in Alsace (2,348 ha), followed at a great distance by Germany with 213 ha (68 ha in Baden, 68 in the Palatinate, 32 in the Mosel, 26 in Rheinhessen), followed by Luxembourg where, in 2016, there were 190 ha, there are also 38 ha in Canada.
Often confused with Pinots, especially Pinot blanc-actually no relation to them-the grape variety prefers cool climates and chalky soils.

Organic wine producers

Organic wine producers
Organic viticulture is becoming increasingly important, and viticulturists who work more conventionally are generally also environmentally conscious and are adopting an integrated farming system. Today, it brings together 10 percent of independent winegrowers. Many try organic on portions of land with the intent of extension to the entire property. Thanks to the hardy Cabernet Blanc grape variety, with the harvest of Domaines Vinsmoselles, Organic culture is gradually becoming established in the production of Luxembourg Wines.

Agrofinancial Considerations

Given the ability of the Luxembourgers to excel in the sectors they qualify as being of national interest, who knows if there is to be expected a future financialization of limited wine production by pushing its excellence to investment rarities through Funds, Options and Futures.

Luxembourg – Lands of Roveresche, March 12, 2024 – Stefano Cesare Palazzi