Luxembourg is internationally famous mainly because of its banks. However, its vineyards, which are among the few in the world located so far north, are not as well known. Its wine history, from the Celts to the present day, is fascinating to say the least. But what lies behind the vineyards of this small state located in the heart of the European Union? Come discover the uniqueness that distinguishes Luxembourg’s Moselle vineyards.
In brief:
Millennia of history
A small pearl
The three producer organizations
The grape varieties: white cabernet and resistant variety of pinot noir
Luxembourg Crémant turns 30 years old
Organic wine producers
Millennia of history
The Moselle Valley is a region with a wine-making tradition that dates back more than 2,000 years. Celts, Gauls and Romans were already cultivating vines before monasteries took over production in the Middle Ages, thus extending vine cultivation to much of the territory. In 1709, after an extremely harsh winter, the Moselle re-established its primacy in viticulture. Beginning in the late 19th century, 90 percent of the vineyards were dedicated to Elbling., exported to Germany to blend with local wines.
It was only after the customs union agreement made with Belgium (1922), the founding of the Wine Institute in Remich (1925) and the creation of the label Marque national (1935), that vineyards developed and became more differentiated.
From launch of the denomination Moselle Luxembourgeoise – Appellation contrôlée In the 1980s, the designation was also introduced. Crémant de Luxembourg and classifications Vendanges Tardives (“late harvest”), Vin de Glace (“ice wine”), Vin de Paille (“straw wine”) and Vins barrique (“barricaded wines”).
A small pearl
The river flows sinuously like the stroke of an impressionist brush, infusing peace and tranquility into the landscape. It is the Moselle, which winds through Luxembourg’s vineyards along some 42 kilometers, facing Germany, flanking vineyards set in a breathtaking landscape. Not surprisingly, Luxembourg’s Moselle Valley, the Grand Duchy’s main wine region, constitutes one of the most visited tourist destinations in the country. It is located only 20 km from the capital city. From Schengen in the south to Wasserbillig in the north, about 340 winegrowers are engaged in managing 1280 hectares of vineyards, 90 percent of which are planted with vines for white wine production.
The three producer organizations
Three producer groups in the region are putting the value of Luxembourg’s vineyards in the spotlight. As Philippe Schmitz, sales representative of Domains Vinsmoselle, explains, ” the country has a long tradition of cooperatives.”, and his company brings together the six national cooperative wineries representing more than 450 winemaker members. Together, constitute 61.7 percent of the producers. This year, they are celebrating the 100th anniversary of their first cooperative winery, the oldest in the Luxembourg Mosel, Caves de Grevenmacher.
52 independent winegrowers have been members of the Professional Organization of Independent Winegrowers (OPVI) since 1966; a number equal to 23 percent of producers.
Producer-retailers, members of the Federation of Producer-Retailers since 1928 and promoters of sparkling wines since the early 1920s, account for 15.3 percent of producers.
The grape varieties: white cabernet and resistant variety of pinot noir
Of 1280 hectares of vineyards in the Luxembourg Moselle, 90 percent of the vines are white. The first of these is Rivaner (Müller-Thurgau), to which 21.6 percent of the total vineyard area corresponds. This grape produces light table wines. It is followed by Pinot Grigio and a Luxembourg specialty, Auxerrois, which correspond to about 15 percent each. Then there is Riesling, the “re of white wines,” which occupies 12.8 percent of the vineyard area. This late-ripening grape variety is less susceptible to fungal diseases and tolerates noble rot very well. On the other hand, as for Elbling, formerly predominant, its area is steadily decreasing.
The country is increasingly focusing on Pinot Noir. To date, one-tenth of the vineyard area is planted with the red Burgundy grape variety. According to Claude François, journalist and editor of the VinsLux guide, who is also a keen observer of Luxembourg vineyards, “almost all winemakers offer Pinot Noir and vinify it inside wooden barrels. To date, the best vintage of Pinto Noir is 2018, followed by an equally excellent 2020. In any case, it is since 2014 that we almost always have very good vintages of Pinot Noir .
White cabernet: a very hardy grape variety
As is also the case in France, Luxembourg winemakers, both members of the Domaines Vinsmoselle cooperative and small producers such as Domaine KOX, are beginning to make wines by choosing resistant grape varieties such as Cabernet Blanc: a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and a disease-resistant variety created by Swiss Valentin Blattner in 1991.
Luxembourg Crémant turns 30 years old
As Claude François explains, “Everyone now produces the sparkling wine of Luxembourg. This is the engine that drives our wine business forward.” This was the case in 1991. Today about three million bottles a year are produced. In fact, some locals like to say that “the best vintages can certainly be equated with the best Champagnes!
Organic wine producers
Organic viticulture is becoming increasingly important. Today, it brings together 10 percent of independent winemakers. Others are trying organic on some plots of land. This is what is happening with Domaines Vinsmoselles’ harvest, made with Cabernet Blanc, a hardy grape variety. However, there is still plenty of room for improvement. “Winemakers who work more conventionally are generally also environmentally conscious and are adopting an integrated farming system,” comments an observer .
Anne Schoendoerffer
In fact, the tasting of this wine allowed us to discover a little-known and (wrongly) considered minor wine-growing area, Luxembourg.
Before then going on to describe the wine here is some information about the territory, legislation, winery and grape variety.
Viticulture in Luxembourg
Just under 1,300 hectares of vineyards winding for some 40 kilometers along the left bank of the Moselle River that marks the border with Germany, from Shengen to Wasserbillig in the territory of the cantons of Remich and Grevenmacher, half of which are managed by cooperative members.
There are 15 grape varieties allowed in Luxembourg, but those mainly cultivated are nine; here they are, in order of vine area: Rivaner, Pinot gris, Auxerrois, Pinot blanc, Riesling, Pinot noir, Elbling, Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer.
The vineyards insist on two different types of soil, in the Remich canton we find marly clay (Keuper – photo 1) and gentle slopes, while in the Grevenmacher canton we find limestone given marine deposits, with the presence of shells (Muschelkalk- photo 2) and steep slopes.
Two designations are provided for in Luxembourg legislation: AOP Moselle luxembourgeoise and AOP Crémant-de-Luxembourg, the latter reserved for sparkling wines Metodo Classico.
L’Auxerrois
With 194 hectares planted with vines (15 percent of the country’s vineyard area), Auxerrois is the third most cultivated grape variety in Luxembourg, preceded only by Rivaner, (the local name for Müller Thurgau) and Pinot Gris (the latter boasts only five hectares more).
Auxerrois is not a widely planted grape variety; the world vineyard area in 2016 was 2,853 ha. That placed it 149th in the ranking of grape varieties (source: Which Winegrape Varieties are Grown Where?)
Almost all of the vine is in France (2,409 ha), mainly in Alsace (2,348 ha), followed at a great distance by Germany with 213 ha (68 ha in Baden, 68 in the Palatinate, 32 in the Mosel, 26 in Rheinhessen), followed by Luxembourg where, in 2016, there were 190 ha, there are also 38 ha in Canada.
Often confused with Pinots, especially Pinot blanc-actually no relation to them-the grape variety prefers cool climates and chalky soils.
Les Vignerons de la Moselle
Before World War I, Luxembourg wine production, through the “Zollverein” customs agreement, was absorbed almost entirely by the German market; after the end of the conflict this important trade outlet had suddenly closed.
Thus, in 1921 a first cooperative had been established in Grevenmacher, with the purpose of helping the winemakers and finding new buyers after the agreement was concluded, taking care of both the production and marketing of the wine.
Five other cooperatives had sprung up over the years; by 1966 five of them had joined to form Vinmonselle, and in 1989 a sixth joined.
Currently under the name Les Vignerons de la Moselle there are 200 winegrowing families.
Production, which is reserved for white wines only, is divided into three different lines: the Gamme Aop is composed of seven different wines, six of which are the result of single grape varieties while the seventh is a blend of Auxerrois, Pinot blanc and Pinot gris.
The Les Premiers Crus line consists of ten wines, also all from single grape varieties, divided into the two Luxembourg Premiers Crus: Côtes de Grevenmacher and Côtes de Remich.
Finally, the third line, the most prestigious one, namely Les Grands Premiers Crus, which in turn is divided into Grands Premiers Crus and Lieux-Dits.
The Grands Premiers Crus consists of nine wines, also all from single grape varieties, divided between Coteaux de Grevenmacher and Coteaux de Remich, except for the Gewürztraminer whose only Cru is Coteaux de Remich.
The Lieux-Dits line is the most numerous and consists of as many as 25 wines, all single-vineyard and all from a specific place, namely a Lieu-Dit.
Definitions
At this point some clarification is urgently needed regarding the different definitions mentioned in Premiers Crus and Grands Premiers Crus wines.
Côtes
The mention “Côtes de” identifies quality entry-level wines.
The vineyard yield may not exceed 100 hectoliters/hectare, which in the case of the Elbling and Rivaner grape varieties is raised to 115 hectoliters/ha.
Coteaux
“Coteaux de” wines are characterized by the grape variety and the areas of origin.
These are quality wines from selected vineyards in the cantons of Grevenmachen and Remich on soils of a different nature: limestone rocks for Grevenmachen and marls (keupériennes) for the canton of Remich.
In addition, the vineyards have lower yields and the harvest must be done manually.
Lieu-Dit
Finally, the “Lieux-Dits,” the pinnacle of quality as far as Luxembourg wines are concerned, i.e., wines of terroir.
The grapes come from individual vineyards whose names are given on the label, are characterized by low yields and rigorous selection, and the harvests are solely by hand.
After this long and hopefully not boring introduction, here we finally come to the wine we tasted, namely theAuxerrois Grand Premier Cru Coteaux de Grevenmacher 2019.
The calcareous soils, rich in shells, give us a wine that makes freshness and verticality its winning weapons.
The color is pale straw yellow, clear and bright.
Medium intense on the nose where we pick up floral and white-fleshed fruit notes, apple, the wine is mineral, vertical and at the same time delicate, we also notice light hydrocarbon hints.
Fresh and vertical in the mouth as well, lightly structured, hints of hydrocarbons mingle with hints of white-fleshed fruit and spicy nuances of ginger, juicy and delicate, savory and elegant with good persistence.
Lorenzo Colombo
